The Gerber Mark II has a surprising number of sheath variations. They range from the early, brown leather, round-tip, right-hand strap scabbards with staples and 2-line Gerber Stamp, to the late model, black, Cordura® ballistic nylon sheaths. The sheaths presented here are organized into several categories, most of which are based on easily observable sheath shape or material. The categories can be accessed from the active buttons above. For each sheath, a small thumbnail picture is included. By clicking on the picture, you can access a high resolution picture of the sheath. I have tried to give an approximate time period for each sheath type based on the knife serial number. Note that these are just a guide as often there are overlaps between sheath types. (See also Mismatches) Some of the descriptions below mention left or right sides of the sheath. These directions are in relation to the sheath being oriented with the rear side facing down and the sheath tip pointed away from the observer. Note that none of the sheaths are serial numbered. The numbers that you find on later sheaths, namely 97223 and 97224, are USPS ZIP Codes for Portland, OR. Listed below are all of the Mark II sheath variations that I am aware of:
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The round-tip sheaths are constructed of 2 pieces of acid tanned, relatively soft leather, 1/8 to 5/32 inch thick and 1 3/4 inch wide except for the top 1 inch that is 2 inches wide. The rear piece is approximately 15 inches long with the upper 1 inch (the 2 inch wide section) rolled over a brass military belt hanger (M1910 Wire Hook) and the lower 1 inch slightly narrowed with a rounded tip. The tip has two punched holes in which a 36 inch leather leg tie is threaded. The front piece is 7 inches long with square upper end and rounded bottom end. The front piece is located about 3/4 inch above the rear piece rounded tip. If the sheath has a sharpening steel, another piece of thinner leather about 4 1/2 inches long is used to form a pocket on the sheath face and located about 1 1/2 inches below the sheath throat. Heavy nylon thread is used to sew the front piece (and the steel pocket if present) to the rear piece and the fold over the military belt hanger at the top. The ends of the stitching at the sheath throat, the belt hanger and the sharpening steel pockets are reinforced with either staples (early sheaths), small 1/8 inch diameter headed rivets (transition sheaths) or standard, 3/16 inch diameter headed rivets (later sheaths). A 3/4 inch wide knife retaining strap extends through a slot cut in the sheath rear piece just above the throat. One end of the retaining strap is riveted to the sheath rear piece. The strap retains the knife when folded across the handle guard and is secured to the front face of the sheath by means of a "DOT" snap fastener. There are two orientations of the strap. The early (RIGHT) strap comes out of a vertical slot cut in the sheath rear piece and crosses over the knife's right guard. The later (LEFT) straps comes out of a diagonal slot cut in the sheath rear piece and crosses over the knife's left guard. The upper portion of the sheath rear piece has two 3-inch long vertical slots cut in the leather with small punched holes at their ends. Any flat belt can be threaded through these slots if the sheath is not being hung from the military belt hanger. Stamped on the front of the rear sheath piece, between the belt slots, is the Gerber name and factory location in either the earlier 2-line or later 3-line format. However, I have noted several Gerber sheaths that did have any stamp. Included with the sheath is the above mentioned 36 inch leather leg tie and a shorter 18- inch tie that can be threaded through a hole in the knife pommel to be used as a wrist thong or can be threaded through the holes at the upper end of the belt slots and used to further secure the knife in the sheath. All sheaths are unfinished or lightly dyed leather with the smooth (grain) side facing out and the rough (flesh) side facing the rear. On some early sheaths, little effort was made to match the two leather pieces and some sheaths will have a noticeable difference in the leather color between the front and rear or front and steel-pocket pieces. I was told that the earliest round tip sheaths were manufactured by The George Lawrence Co. 306 S.W. First Ave., Portland, Ore. Later sheaths were made in the Gerber factory.
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The pointed-tip sheaths are constructed of 2 pieces of acid tanned, relatively soft leather, 1/8 to 5/32 inch thick, 2 inches wide and with a wasp shape. The rear piece is approximately 15 inches long with the upper 1 inch rolled over a brass military belt hanger (M1910 Wire Hook) and the lower 1 inch narrowed with a pointed tip. The tip has two punched holes in which a 36 inch leather leg tie is threaded. The front piece is approximately 7 inches long with square upper end and pointed bottom end and also has a wasp shape. The front piece is located about 1 1/4 inch above the rear piece pointed tip. If the sheath has a sharpening steel, another piece of thinner leather about 4 1/2 inches long is used to form a pocket on the sheath face and located about 1 1/2 inches below the sheath throat. These sheaths were made in several colors as mentioned below. A 3/4 inch wide knife retaining strap extends through a diagonal slot cut in the sheath rear piece just above the throat. One end of the retaining strap is riveted to the sheath rear piece. The strap retains the knife when folded across the handle guard and is secured to the front face of the sheath by means of a "DOT" snap fastener. There is only one orientation of the strap. It crosses over the knife's left guard. All the pointed-tip sheaths have a pointed end on the strap. With the introduction of the black pointed-tip sheath, two minor design changes were made. The first modification was the addition of a welt. A welt is a narrow piece of leather sandwiched between the front and rear sheath pieces prior to stitching the sheath's seams. The welt protects the stitching from the knife edge as well as allowing easy withdrawal and insertion of the knife. The second change was to replace the previously brass military belt hanger with one made of steel. Heavy nylon thread is used to sew the front piece (and the steel pocket if present) to the rear piece and the fold over the military belt hanger at the top. The end of the stitching at the sheath throat and the belt hanger are reinforced with the standard headed rivets made of steel. The upper portion of the sheath rear piece has two vertical slots cut in the leather with small punched holes at their ends. Any flat belt can be threaded through these slots if the sheath is not being hung from a military belt. Stamped on the front of the rear sheath piece, between the belt slots, is the Gerber name and factory location in the 3-line format. For some reason the stamp was changed to face the left side during the early red-brown sheaths production period. The stamp can be found facing the right side on the early red-brown sheaths and the left side on later sheaths. Also included with the sheath is a shorter 18 inch leather tie that can be threaded through a hole in the knife pommel and be used as a wrist thong or can be threaded through the holes at the upper end of the belt slots and used to further secure the knife in the sheath. These sheaths usually have a high gloss dyed finish applied to the smooth (grain) outside face of the leather. Most rear sides of the sheath are in the rough (unfinished) condition. However, most tan sheaths have the rough rear sides sealed with a black finish. The sequence of dye colors is red-brown, green, tan and black. All sharpening steels for the pointed-tip sheaths have the Gerber name stamp with the larger 0.17 inch high letters. The early steels having square corners on both chisel edges and the later steels having one of the chisel edges rounded.
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The flat-tip sheaths are the result of a minor redesign in sheath construction from the previous pointed-tip sheaths. It is a simpler design and results in a stiffer, sturdier sheath. The flat-tip sheaths are constructed of 2 pieces of acid tanned, relatively stiff leather, 1/8 to 5/32 inch thick, 2 inches wide and with a wasp shape. The rear piece is approximately 14 1/2 inches long with the upper 1 inch rolled over a steel military belt hanger (M1910 Wire Hook) and the lower end ending in a flat tip approximately 1 1/4 inch wide and slightly chamfered. Approximately 3/4 of an inch above the flat bottom tip, two punched holes extend through both pieces of the sheath and in which a 36 inch leather leg tie is threaded. The front piece is approximately 8 inches long with square upper end and square bottom end and also has a wasp shape. The bottom of the front piece is even with the rear piece. A welt, a narrow piece of leather, is sandwiched between the sheath's front and rear pieces on both sides and the bottom. The welt protects the stitching from the knife edge as well as allowing easy insertion and withdrawal of the knife. Heavy nylon thread is used to sew the front piece to the rear piece and the fold over the military belt hanger at the top. The end of the stitching at the sheath throat and the belt hanger are reinforced with 3/16 inch steel rivets on the earlier sheaths and extra-large 5/16 inch aluminum rivets on the later sheaths. A 3/4 inch wide knife retaining strap extends through a diagonal slot cut in the sheath rear piece just above the throat. One end of the retaining strap is riveted to the sheath rear piece. The strap retains the knife when folded across the handle guard and is secured to the front face of the sheath by means of a "DOT" snap fastener. There is only one orientation of the strap. It crosses over the knife's left guard. The upper portion of the sheath rear piece has two vertical slots cut in the leather with small punched holes at their ends. Any flat belt can be threaded through these slots if the sheath is not being hung from a military belt. Stamped on the front of the rear sheath piece, between the belt slots, is the Gerber name and factory location in the 3-line format. The stamp is facing the left side of the sheath. The flat-tipped sheaths have a high gloss dye finish, in a black color applied to the smooth (grain) outside face of the leather. The rear sides of the sheaths are in the rough condition with just a light spray from the dye to color the rear face. Also included with the sheath is a shorter 18 inch leather tie that can be threaded through a hole in the knife pommel and be used as a wrist thong or can be threaded through the holes at the upper end of the belt slots and used to further secure the knife in the sheath. All sharpening steels for the flat-tip sheaths have the Gerber name stamp with the large 0.17 inch high letters and one square and one rounded chisel edge corner. |
In 1985 Cordura® nylon sheaths were introduced and are the only non-leather sheaths associated with the Mark II. They are a re-design, use different sheath materials and produce a more durable sheath. These sheaths are constructed of a black colored Cordura® ballistic nylon fabric similar to that used for making luggage. Cordura® has roughly twice the abrasion resistance of ordinary nylon. Additional advantages of Cordura® are quick drying, resists mold and mildew and is non-acidic so there is less chance of knife corrosion. The sheaths measures 2 3/8 inches wide by 12 1/2 inches long with a narrowing to 1 1/2 inches at the tip. They are quite complicated in their construction, with multiple layers of fabric, stiff inserts and a welt made of a rubber-like material all stitched together with heavy nylon thread. The welt, a narrow piece of rubber, is sandwiched between the sheath's front and rear pieces on both sides and the bottom. The welt protects the stitching from the knife edge as well as allowing easy insertion and withdrawal of the knife. The end of the stitching at the sheath throat is reinforced with large headed rivets made of steel. The top of the sheath is folded-over in several different ways to form a belt loop. A small loop of nylon strap is sewn in at the tip, through which a 36 inch black nylon chord leg tie is threaded. The knife is retained in the sheath by either one or two 1 inch wide nylon retaining straps which secure the knife by means of "DOT" snap fasteners. Sewn on the rear of some of these sheaths is a Bianchi™ "Quick-Lock" belt fastener, the type used for military pistol holsters. Sheaths without the belt fastener are not marked. One of the sheath configurations has snaps on the belt loop and two have a sharpening stone pocket sewn to the front face. Although of a complicated design, they are probably less costly to manufacture than previous sheaths made of leather. In 2008 a different sheath was issued with the re-introduced 2008 Gerber Mark II. Details are explained below under the C5 sheath description. I have attempted to list the Cordura® sheaths in the order of their introduction. However, I am not sure as some of the sheath types have so few examples.
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The presentation sheaths are similar to the flat-tip sheaths but have a belt loop rather than a military belt hanger. The presentation sheaths are constructed of 2 pieces of acid tanned, relatively stiff leather, 1/8 to 5/32 inch thick, 2 inches wide and with a slight wasp shape. The rear piece is approximately 21 inches long with the upper 6 inches folded over towards the front face to form a belt loop. There is a chamfer on the folded over piece to thin the leather thickness in the area of the sheath throat. The lower end of the rear piece ends in a flat tip approximately 1 1/4 inch wide and slightly chamfered. The front piece is approximately 9 inches long with square upper end and square bottom end and also has a slight wasp shape. The bottom of the front piece is even with the rear piece. A welt, a narrow piece of leather, is sandwiched between the sheath's front and rear pieces on both sides and the bottom. The welt protects the stitching from the knife edge as well as allowing easy insertion and withdrawal of the knife. Heavy nylon thread is used to sew the front piece and the chamfered end of the foldover to the rear piece. A major difference in the presentation sheaths is that the smooth side of the leather faces out on both the front and rear pieces. There are no rivets in these sheaths. A 3/4 inch wide knife retaining strap extends through a diagonal slot cut in the sheath rear piece just above the throat. One end of the retaining strap is riveted to the sheath folded over rear piece. The strap retains the knife when folded across the handle guard and is secured to the front face of the sheath by means of a "DOT" snap fastener. The brass cover of the snap fastener on the strap is not painted black. There is only one orientation of the strap. It crosses over the knife's left guard. Approximately 3/4 of an inch above the flat bottom tip, two punched holes extend through both pieces of the sheath and in which a 36 inch leather leg tie is threaded. Stamped on the rear of the sheath about 2 inches from the top of the belt loop, is the Gerber name and factory location in the 3-line format. The stamp is facing the tip of the sheath rather than one of the sides. The presentation sheaths have a high gloss dye finish, in a both a light-tan and dark brown color applied to both faces of the sheath. To my knowledge these sheaths were never constructed with a sharpening steel pocket.
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Dive sheaths are made of heavy, tallow impregnated leather able to withstand salt water immersion. The sheath is designed to be worn on the leg in the thigh area, fastened by two leather (early sheaths) or rubber (later sheaths) straps. The sheaths are constructed of 2 pieces of heavy, stiff, tallow impregnated leather, 1/4 inch thick, 1 7/8 inches wide and with a straight shape. The rear piece is approximately 14 inches long with the lower 1 1/2 inch narrowed to 1 3/8 inch and with a flat tip. The tip has two punched slots, 1 inch long by 1/4 inch wide, through which a leather or rubber leg strap can be threaded. An additional 2 punched slots are located 1 1/4 inches from the top of the sheath through which another leather or rubber leg strap can be threaded. The front piece is approximately 7 1/4 inches long with square upper end and rounded bottom end. The front piece is located about 1 1/2 inches above the rear piece flat tip. No welt is used with this sheath. Heavy waved nylon thread is used to sew the front piece to the rear piece. Most sheaths have a double row of stitches. But I have seen sheaths with a single row of stitches but they are not common. There are no rivets at the end of the stitching at the sheath throat. The knife is retained by means of either a leather (early) or rubber (later) flap type keeper. The keeper is circular, 2 inches in diameter with a 3/4 inch diameter hole in the center. There are two tabs as an integral part of the keeper. The one at the top is 1 1/4 wide and 1 inch high. The one at the bottom is 1 inch wide by 1/2 inch high and is rounded. The keeper is laid flat in the same plane as the sheath and fastened to the rear sheath piece, 5/8 inch from the top. The early leather keepers are sewn to the sheath. The later 1/4 inch thick rubber keepers are fastened by two copper rivets and washers through the top tab of the keeper. The rivet heads are on the rear of the sheath and the rivet posts are peened over the washers on the front face of the keeper. The keeper is lifted, the knife is inserted and the keeper is lowered so that the hole fits snugly over the end of knife pommel. It is a little awkward but a very secure system, especially with the rubber keeper. The dive sheaths also include two 1 inch wide leather (with inside facing edges chamfered) or rubber leg straps, and with 1 1/2" by 1 1/2" belt type buckles on one end; Most buckles came from the factory painted flat black although I have seen an example that seemed to be chrome plated. The paint wears off easily and some are seen slightly rusty. There are two makers of the buckles. Most have a small anchor stamped on the underside of the buckle, indicating they are corrosion resistant. Other examples have what appears to be the intertwined letters "CRC" on the underside of the buckle. The CRC possibly stands for "Corrosion Resistant Coating". The upper thigh strap is roughly 21 inches long. The lower strap is 18 inches long. By altering the length of the straps, the knife could be worn in one of three positions. On the thigh, on the lower leg or on the arm. These sheaths have the three-line Gerber name/address stamp on the upper front of the sheath in the handle area, below the upper belt slots. The stamp, facing the right side of the sheath reads "GERBER" / "PORTLAND, ORE." / "97223 U.S.A." The dive sheaths are found on the 1970-1974 yellow handled dive knives. Yellow handled dive knives have no serial numbers.
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This section lists sheaths that are either prototype or experimental type sheaths and never put into production. Caution must be used when declaring an item is a prototype because of the possibility that the sheath may just be a modification of a standard sheath by an creative individual. Other times the item may be a "Lunch Box Special", made by an employee in the Gerber factory and carried out sometimes in a lunch pail. One of these "LBS" sheaths is shown in the Unusual section. Oftentimes a prototype sheath contains features that were later adopted and others that were not. More genuine prototypes probably exist and will be added as I learn of them.
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This section lists sheaths that are unusual or odd. They are probably unique items, either modified production sheaths or were made by an employee in the Gerber factory.
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SHEATH STAMPS - There were four different Gerber dies used to stamp non-dive Gerber leather sheaths. The stamps are all text and are stamped into the front face of the upper portion of the sheath in the knife handle area, centered between the belt slots. Some stamps faced to the left of the sheath and some to the right. See the Sheath Table for each sheath type's orientation. The four sheath stamps in order of introduction are as follows:
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1) Two Line Stamp: This is the first sheath stamp used. It consists of only two lines. "GERBER" over "PORTLAND, ORE., U.S.A.". Note that there is a comma following the period after the letters "ORE." This is the same form of location marking found on the early knives with the First Slant Logo. Note the letter G in Gerber does not have the portion of the letter pointing back to the inside of the letter. Also note the lettering has a large stroke width and characters are not merely composed of a thin line. This stamp was used during the years 1967-1968 in the approximate serial number range of 001001 to 008887.
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2) Three Line Stamp: This is the second sheath stamp used. It consists of three lines. "GERBER" over "PORTLAND, ORE." over "97223         U.S.A." Note that a ZIP Code has been added and there is no comma following the period after the letters "ORE." The letter G in Gerber has been altered and now has the portion of the letter pointing back to the inside of the letter. Again the lettering has a large stroke width and characters are not merely composed of a thin line. This stamp was used during the years 1968-1984 in the approximate serial number range of 008824 to D7167S. It was also used on the waxed dive sheaths of 1971-1974 but the lettering is constructed of thin lines.
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3) 20th. Anniversary Stamp: This is the third stamp to appear on Gerber Mark II sheaths. Very similar to the Three Line Stamp, but the lettering is constructed of thin lines. This stamp was used on the 1986, 20th. Anniversary knife sheaths in the serial number range of XX0001 to XX5000.
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4) New Zip Stamp: This is the fourth and last stamp to appear on Gerber Mark II leather sheaths. It consists of three lines. "GERBER" over "PORTLAND, ORE." over "97224         U.S.A." Note that a ZIP Code has changed from 97223 to 97224. The letter G in Gerber has again been altered and has reverted back to not having the portion of the letter pointing back to the inside of the letter. The lettering has a large stroke width and characters are not merely composed of a thin line. This stamp was used on one 2001 and two 2002 special edition knife sheaths as follows: "2001 35th. Anniversary" knives in the serial number range of 010001 - 011250. "2002 Limited Edition" knives in the serial number range of A00001 to A01500. "Limited Edition A. G. Russell" knives in the serial number range of Z00001 to Z00100.
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Gerber sharpening steels are flat steel bars, approximately 5 inches long, 7/8 inch wide and 1/4 inch thick. The long outside edges are slightly rounded, have a rougher surface than the smoother flat sides and are intended as the main sharpening surface. The flat sides are intended for final honing. The bottom 1 inch is tapered to form a 7/8 inch wide chisel tip. The chisel tip can be used for hacking, prying or splitting. The top end is flat with a 1/4 inch (early) or 3/16 inch (later) diameter hole 5/8 inch from the top. The hole is threaded with a 10 inch length of leather tie looped to aid in extracting the steel from the sheath pocket. Although commonly called sharpening steels, they are actually honing steels. Honing is a finishing operation. Small amounts of material are removed. It is not practical to perform substantial sharpening by honing. Most have the Gerber name stamped at the top of the steel above the hole. The sharpener is forged from 0-1 tool steel. Chromium carbide is bonded to the surface and makes the tool hard enough to dress the edge of Gerber's high speed tool steel knives. The sharpening steels can be found with Mark II leather sheaths with the steel pocket as well as in separate small leather scabbards and later in folding leather handles. NOTE: The sharpening steels were also made in an 8 inch length in both the separate scabbard version and the folding handle version. With their longer length, the 8 inch versions were much easier to use. But probably due to their size and weight, the 8 inch versions are not as strongly associated with the Gerber Mark II. Close-ups of the 5 inch steels are shown below.
    
There are four types of sharpening steels that are found with Gerber sheaths. I have coded them as follows:   NGSC - No Gerber - Square Corner                         LGSC - Large Gerber - Square Corner SGSC - Small Gerber - Square Corner                         LGRC - Large Gerber - Round Corner
 
The NGSC steels are earliest steels and lack the Gerber name stamp. They have the same large diameter hole and square corners on both chisel edges as do the SGSC steels. They were issued in the early scabbards with only the simple Gerber name stamp. Some early knives may be found with these steels. I was mistaken about these unmarked steels and assumed they were made by a different manufacturer. I've since obtained a near mint example with the early scabbard and paperwork which lists it from Gerber Legendary Blades, West Linn, Oregon, U.S.A.  
 
The SGSC steels are the second sharpening steels. These steels have the Gerber name stamp with the small 0.10 inch high letters and have square corners on both chisel edges. The 1/4 inch hole at the top is slightly larger than the later Large Gerber steels. They are found with the round tip sheaths with steel pocket ("RTxS" sheaths) from 1967 to early 1971. They were also available in a small leather scabbard for knives that did not have the steel pocket.  
 
The LGSC steels are the third type sharpening steel and are an intermediate form and relatively rare. These steels have the Gerber name stamp with the larger 0.17 inch high letters. The Gerber name was made larger for an unknown reason. At the same time the diameter of the hole at the top was made slightly smaller from 1/4 inch to 3/16 inch. They retain the square corners on both chisel edges. There are few of the these LGSC steels because, at around this time, Gerber introduced the steel with a folding leather handle. The exposed square chisel corner presented a cutting hazard and were soon modified as explained under the LGRC description. The LGSC steels are found with both the separate leather scabbard and the early folding leather handle sharpeners.  
 
The LGRC steels are the fourth version of the sharpening steel associated with the Mark II. These steels have the Gerber name stamp with the larger 0.17 inch high letters. The Gerber name was made larger for an unknown reason. They have the 3/16 inch (later) diameter hole. They also have a rounded corner on one chisel edge. The rounded chisel end resulted when Gerber decided to eliminate the small leather scabbard and instead issue the steel with a folding leather handle. The handle is made such that the steel is sandwiched inside the handle and offset so that one of the long edges is exposed. A screw that passes through the leather handle and the hole in the steel holds the pieces together and acts as the pivot point. At some point Gerber must have received complaints that people were being cut by the sharp chisel edge exposed above the leather handle edge. Gerber's solution was to round the single exposed chisel edge. Rather than make two versions of the steel, the rounded chisel edge steels were also used with the leather scabbards and Mark II sheaths. They are found with some of the later RT5S round tip sheaths in 1971-1972 and the pointed-tip and flat-tip sheaths from 1973 until the end of Mark II leather sheath production in 1986.
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Most of the leather and one of the Cordura Mark II sheaths have a military belt hanger (M1910 Wire Hook) as one of methods of carrying the Mark II knife. Earlier sheaths had a hanger made of brass while later sheaths have a steel hanger. Occasionally you will encounter a sheath with the military belt hanger having been removed and you may want to bring it back to "as issued" appearance. I've seen two ways the hanger can be removed:
1) The folded over leather loop of the hanger has been slit, and the hanger removed through the slit. If the folded over leather loop of the hanger has been slit, there is little you can do other than obtain a spare hanger of the proper type, install it through the slit and use some leather glue to close the slit. Use care that the glue does't seep onto the hanger and bond it so it won't rotate. But this method isn't very secure and works for appearance only. You could lose the knife and sheath if you attempted to wear the sheath and the glue separates. However if the original wire hook has been cut and removed, you can replace it. Cut a spare brass or steel hanger in half. Then find a thin walled tube that will slip into the folded over leather loop and that has an inside diameter slightly larger than the hangers wire diameter. The length of the tube should be shorter than the sheath top width so it wont show. Dry assemble the parts and lay above the sheath top. Adjust to the correct width and center the tube between the hooks. Mark each wire end with a pencil at the location at the depth it should be inserted into the tube. Put a small dab of epoxy on the cut end of one of the halves of the hanger, insert it into the tube up to the pencil mark and let dry. Then put another small dab of epoxy down in the tube open end (you don't want it to squeeze out and bond to the leather) and insert the tube into the loop at the top of the sheath. Finally insert the 2nd. half of the hanger, align and let set. Use care not to install the hanger reversed. The ends of the hooks should be laying flat against the front face of the sheath when the hanger is rotated forward and down toward the sheath tip.
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Many concerns about Gerber Knives will concern the possibility of knife-sheath mismatches. For example, a knife and sheath may get swapped with another knife/sheath or a sheath gets damaged and a later type sheath is used as a replacement. The swap will be obvious when a later model sheath is found on an earlier serial numbered knife. However, it is more difficult to determine if a mismatch exists when the knife and sheath are close to the same time period. While knives are serial numbered and can be related to the year they were manufactured, the sheaths cannot be dated except by comparing them to examples where the knife and sheath are known to be related. The most reliable comparisons are done with "Mint in the Box" knives. Confusing the issue are apparent mismatches. Since sheaths were made in batches, a small number of sheaths could get covered over with a batch of newer sheaths. If these conditions occurred during a transition period, an apparent mismatch exists. Or a few sheaths could get misplaced then at some later time be discovered and used. For example, the FT2 sheath was last issued with 1985 knives. However, in my collection are two Mint In Box, 1989 Cutlery Shoppe knives with FT2 sheaths in Gerber orange boxes with no end label. Gerber probably had a small number of the FT2 sheaths left over and decided to issue them with the CS knives. Hopefully the descriptions and pictures provided will help you make a valid judgement as to a proper match. However, there is no substitute for experience. Carefully examine as many knife-sheath pairs as possible. Be critical. Is there a difference in the condition or amount of wear between knife and sheath? Has the sheath been repaired or modified in some way? Here are some further items to be aware of: Copies are usually a problem with collectable knives/sheaths. However, I am aware of only a couple of quality copies of the early Gerber sheaths. V Peloza, John Carson, Rhondo Leather Works and Norseman Bladeworks of Canada all make nice copies but all also mark their sheaths with their logo. There is also several nice unstamped sheath copies made by makers in Japan, one by Daigo Kuga of Tokyo. Both Peloza and Carson make great looking riveted sheath copies (in the style of Nam era Randall knives). However, Gerber never made a "riveted" sheath. In the past, unscrupulous individuals would put a 20th. Anniversary sheath with an early knife. However the price of the 20th. Anniversary boxed knives has skyrocketed and you don't see this happening much anymore. See 20th. Anniversary Sheath for a list of differences between the early sheaths and the 20th. Anniversary sheath. There are several Gerber Mark II "Clone" knives (copies) by Guttman, Parker, Valor, CI and others. Several have fairly well made pointed-tip black leather sheaths and one, a black presentation style sheath. Look for the Gerber name stamp. If not present, the sheath is almost certainly from one of the copies. However, note that there is no Gerber identification on any of the Cordura® sheaths that lack the Bianchi™ belt fastener except for the C5 sheath used for the re-introduced 2008 version Mark II Knife. There is also the possibility that a round-tip or red-brown pointed-tip sheath has been dyed black by a previous owner. No round tip sheaths were factory dyed black. In the case of a pointed-tip sheath, look down into the throat of the sheath. Usually a careful examination will detect any dye effort.
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The early sheaths are difficult to acquire in excellent to mint condition. Several factors conspire against you. First, any of the sheaths of knives used in Vietnam are usually falling apart. Jungle conditions are not kind to leather. The constant wetting and drying cycles as well as the presence of mold and fungus give the Vietnam carried sheaths the look and consistency of a piece of blackened toast. At home the passage of time slowly destroys them as the result of acid tanned leather in contact with metal parts of the sheath. Taking care of your sheaths makes sense from several standpoints. First, you want to preserve the condition of the knife and sheath. Each is a piece of history and I feel we should take the best possible care of the knives in our safekeeping. Secondly, your knives are an investment. During the period you will own them they will almost surely appreciate in value. Any degrading of their condition due to improper care or careless handling will bring a corresponding decrease in their value. The early Mark-IIs with L-6 tool steel blades require special care to keep the blades from discoloring, rusting or pitting and damaging the sheath as well. The most important rule is NEVER STORE A KNIFE IN A SHEATH !!! In fact, never store the knife in any manner that will allow the knife to remain in contact with the sheath or leather ties for any period of time. The reason for this caution is that all of the leather used for sheath production by the Gerber factory was acid-tanned leather. A very small amount of moisture is all that is required to start slowly destroying your Mark-II. Also, DO NOT SEAL IN PLASTIC! Plastic can trap moisture. Below are several examples of the damage that occurred to a knife left in a wet sheath. The left picture shows a L6 blade where corrosion has eaten into the blade. The right picture shows the same knife with damage to the handle finish. This occurs when the handle aluminum is exposed to moisture, usually though a chip in the handle paint. Moisture causes oxidation of the aluminum, forming aluminum oxide. The oxide swells, causing the paint to blister and raising it above the handle surface. This allows more of the handle aluminum to be exposed to the moisture and the damage progresses rapidly.
    
Another problem exists with acid-tanned sheaths in that any hardware (any snaps, hangers, rivets, etc.) used on the sheath will be attacked by the acid. Steel parts will rust and I'm sure you've seen "verdigris" (copper acetate), a green colored deposit on brass or copper. Over time this deposit will slowly build up around the DOT snap and brass hanger. Since verdigris is hydroscopic (attracts moisture) if left alone and allowed to accumulate, it will bleed into, blacken and damage the leather around the metal items. Carefully remove it without smearing any on the leather. Then use a piece of thread under the DOT snap edge to clean out the deposit under the snap. That helps to keep the brass of the snap from contacting the leather in a larger area. The verdigris can also build up around the brass military belt hanger at the top of the sheath. Difficult to clean but again thread can be useful here as well. Moisture poses the greatest danger to knives and sheaths so the best solution is to check your knives and sheaths frequently.
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